Patagonia Days 2-3: Refugio Grey

The next morning we took an early bus to Torres Del Paine park. After lunch at Paine Grande lodge, we spent 4 hours hiking up to Refugio Grey. The picture on the left is of Glacier Grey and Lake Grey. Seeing Glacier Grey is one of the 3 highlights of the W trail (the other two being the French Valley and the Torres Del Paine). We arrived at Refugio Grey that evening and had the first of many fantastic Refugio dinners with ample amounts of Austral beer and Gato wine-in-a-box. Later that night, our trip mate arrived with new shoes and we had a surprise birthday party for another trip mate in the Refugio. We even baked a cake using the ingredients available in the kitchen and had all the guests in the Refugio sign a card. One of the guests was a German girl who is doing her PhD on 'High Mountain Geography' with a specialization on 'Glaciers'. So, she is studying Glacier Grey by making weekly trips to the glacier and measuring key characteristics of the glacier (rate of melting, etc.) We were almost able to arrange a hike on the glacier through her but alas couldn't get a permit. Is there any better way to celebrate a birthday then in the shadow of Glacier Grey?

The next day, we did a day hike near Grey. Our goal was to get to Camp Pass, 4-5 hours north of Refugio Grey. Camp Pass offers a stunning view of the glacier. Unfortunately, we left late and could not make it all the way. I separated from the group to try to push further to Camp Pass, but I realized that it was not going to be doable in one day. Still, hiking on the side of a cliff over-looking the glacier was a tremendous experience. On the way back to the Refugio, I spent a good 20 minutes sitting on a boulder and watching the glacier with a French family (mother, father, and son) who were camping at Refugio Grey. It was windy and cold, but it was just one of many serene moments on the W trail where I could silently enjoy nature's splendor. Afterward, I spent some time at the lake's edge where glacier pieces collect. Glaciers look like light, airy objects; but trying to push one with my legs, I realized they are not. I guess that's why they say 'tip of the iceberg'.


Refugio Grey was also the first place we unveiled our Wharton banner. Over the course of the week, we had the banner signed by fellow hikers, Refugio staff, and finally ourselves. Our goal is to pass this banner on to the next group who hikes the W trail in Torres Del Paine.